Silk Weaves
Silk has been a highly respected fabric, which is chiefly associated with the ceremonial rites of ancient India. Since ages, silk has been a much sought after cloth, not only by the common man, but also by the kings and queens. It continues to be a popular and widely used material because of its luster and its graceful and sensuous folds, which lend themselves exquisitely to designing.
The present-day silk-weaving tradition in India revolves around the sari, an ethnic dress that is worn in most parts of the country. Silk saris are often created with zari (cloth woven with gold and silver wires) work on them.
The main silk weaving centres are Varanasi, Surat, Chander, Murshidabad, Mysore, Assam, Kanchepuram, Tanjore, Dharmavaram, etc.
Varanasi is one of the leading silk sari producing centres of India. It is known for its heavy gold-silver brocades. Hair thin wires of gold and silver wires are then used with silk yarn for weaving. The amru silk sarees of Varanasi (Banaras) are not only famous in India, but also abroad. Jamvar, navrangi (nine colours), jamdani, etc. are other brocade types in the range of Banarasi saris.
Patola silk saris of Gujarat are famous all over the world. These saris are created by using the dyeing technique. There are two type of patola saris. The Rajkot patola is only vertically-resist dyed (single ikat), while the Patan patola is horizontally-resist dyed (double ikat). The yarn is resist dyed before it is used in weaving. Patola saris are known for their flaming bright colours and geometric designs interspersed with folk motifs.
Maharashtra is known for its paithani silk saris, which are generally decorated with the gold dot or coin motif.
The state of Madhya Pradesh is famous for chanderi, maheshwari and tussar silk saris.
Chanderi saris are known for soft colours and the harmonious balance between the border and the body of the sari. These saris are also known for their contrasting colours and the depiction of animal and human figures on them.
Maheshwari saris are known for its elaborate patterns and border. These saris have exotic designs done in zari and pleasant colours.
Tussar silk or kosa silk is prized for its purity and texture, as it is available naturally in shades of gold-pale, dark, honey, tawny and beige. It is a special variety of silk, as the cocoons are raised on arjun and sal trees. They come in a range of colours and are decorated with a variety of natural motifs. Tussar silk is also produced in Bihar.
Silk Bomkai and Sambalpuri saris from Orissa are also in single and double ikat. In contrast to the ikats of Gujarat, these saris are sober in colour and decorated with curved forms.
Murshidabad in West Bengal is the home of the famous baluchari sari. The Baluchar technique of weaving uses untwisted silk tread for weaving brocades.
Heavy silk saris from Tanjore, Kumbakonam and Kancheepuram in Tamil Nadu are known for their broad decorative borders and contrasting colours. Sangareddy and Dharmaswaram in Andhra Pradesh specialise in ikat silk weave.
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