The Indian subcontinent is home to the cotton crop. The art of weaving and dyeing of cotton is known in India since ancient times. This has been recognized by the fact that some cotton items have been unearthed from the Harappan region.
The cotton saris of West Bengal are called jamdanis and follow the traditional patterns. Initially, the jamdani saris were woven for the nobles of North India. This art is still practiced in Tanda and Varanasi. This jamdani technique of weaving saris is found in the cotton centres of Venkatagiri in Andhra Pradesh, Morangfi in Manipur and Kodialkarruppar in Tamil Nadu.
Style and Fashion of India
Chanderi is noted for fine cotton saris and shawls, wraps worn by the womenfolk. The warp is silk and the weft is cotton. The saris carry motifs or roundels.
Maheshwar, on the banks of River Narmada, weaves fine cotton saris with tiny checks, which combine complimentary colours together. Very soft colours are used for the dyeing. Maharastrian women wear these saris with flowing pleats in the front while the back is tucked into the waist.
Summer Fashion of India
The illkal saris of Karnataka and the Narayanpet saris of Andhra Pradesh also have the same style. In ilkal saris, the indigo is used for dyeing purposes. Gadwal and Wanaparti in Andhra Pradesh produce saris of thick cotton with a contrasting silk border and pallu worked in gold.
In Tamil Nadu, the cotton sari platterns closely resemble the silk ones. The important centres are Kanjeevaram, Salem, Pudukottai and Madurai. Coimbatore has its own style of cotton saris which are less expensive and which resemble the Chanderi patterns. Nowadays, cotton saris woven with the traditional silk patterns, called kalakshetra, are widely popular.
Kerala has started weaving cotton saris lately. Its specialty is the karalkudi saris of unbleached cotton with rich broad gold borders and pallus.
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