Indian Literature, speaks of the bhairnivasini, a skirt like garment, which evolved from the antariya, a simple tube-shaped garment. This was stitched on one side, gathered and held at the waist by a girdle. Women wore it as a lower garment. It later evolved into a skirt with a drawstring called the ghaghri. The ghaghri was a narrow skirt, made from five and a half metres of fabric - the same length as the original antariya. Representations of a similar garment can be seen in Buddist sculptures and paintings dating from the kushana or early Gupta period. This was probably the prototype of the modern ghaghra.
The skirt in India is known by many different names, depending on the regional style, the most popular, by far, being the ghaghra. Other names in literature for the woman's lower garment are ambara, amsuka, antariya and jaghanamsuka. Another term used was the lehanga, a compound of the Sanskrit words-lanka (waist) and anga (body or limb). The lehanga is generally associated with a panelled skirt that is narrower than the ghaghra. However, there are no rigid definitions and the terms have found a more generic usage. This and other styles of the skirt are very popular in North India.
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